January 4th, 2019
My family has been making traditional English shoes for longer than anyone can remember. My great-grandfather John opened the first Loake factory with his brothers, Thomas and William, back in 1880. Today, five generations and more than 130 years later, the Loake association with fine, handmade shoes lives on.
It was a tremendous pleasure for Loake to work with Paul Costelloe for the exclusive unveiling of his Spring/Summer 2018 collections at London Fashion Week. Loake shoes were chosen to complement Paul Costelloe London’s signature tailoring for menswear. Loake styles in luxury leathers and suedes were paired with sharp, two-piece suits in light summer-weight wools and heritage linens to accentuate the story of a collection designed and created in Britain.
Now one of the most established names in British fashion, Paul Costelloe and Loake have a lot in common. In the same way that Loake combines traditional manufacturing techniques with contemporary classic design, Paul Costelloe takes inspiration from the traditions of fine British tailoring and reinterprets this into relaxed but elegant, contemporary menswear. The Loake family has been making shoes for five generations and over 130 years. Paul Costelloe is also very much a family concern, with each collection designed from central London where Paul resides with his wife, daughter and six sons!
To celebrate the collaboration, Paul Costelloe had a chat with Andrew Loake about Loake’s history, design and development process, and what it meant to partner with another British brand with shared philosophies and values.
The heritage of Loake is British design, materials, manufacturing and aesthetic, something Paul Costelloe values greatly in his menswear collections. Is the Loake customer the quintessential British man or has the heritage found new appeal internationally?
Loake is definitely an authentic British brand, having made footwear for British soldiers and officers in two World Wars, British Olympic teams and other high profile British sportsmen, actors and musicians. We’ve also produced some iconic designs that have become synonymous with British youth culture, such as our Brighton loafer and Royal brogue, which were first introduced in the 70s and are still in production today. Fortunately, British craftsmanship is valued around the world and the word is spreading. We now sell to over 50 countries around the world.
One thing Loake and Paul Costelloe have in common is that we are both family businesses. What do you see as the challenges and opportunities of working in a family company?
One of the traps that a long-established family business can fall into is trying to maintain tradition; doing things as they have always been done. At Loake we have tremendous respect for that tradition and heritage, but we also try to maintain the entrepreneurial spirit that our forefathers had. They were pioneers, not slaves to their past. So despite our notable history, we are very much a forward-looking company. We still specialise in fine, Goodyear welted men’s footwear, but the range on offer has been extended to include alternative constructions and a choice of both classic and contemporary designs.
This Loake style and the ones featured below are the designs chosen by Paul Costelloe for the SS18 catwalk presentation at LFW
How has the Loake outlook, ethos and business changed in the last 130 years? Are your shoes made the same way for example? What is next in shoe technology for Loake?
Our shoes are still made in the same way and using the same traditional techniques. The main difference is in the position that they hold in the marketplace. In previous generations, Goodyear welted shoes were commonly worn and regarded more as a commodity. Today, there are alternative constructions available (including direct moulded shoes, PU soles, etc.) and Goodyear welted shoes are regarded as something of a luxury. So, our aim now is to make really high quality footwear affordable and available to everybody.
Can you take us through the main design and manufacturing steps of a pair of Loake shoes?
That would take longer than we have time for. There are approximately 200 separate operations involved in making a pair of Loake Goodyear welted shoes. We estimate that, on average, 75 people will handle each pair and the entire process from start to finish takes 8 weeks. he single thing that most people underestimate is the amount of work that happens below the insoles (making the uppers is the easy bit).
What have been a few of the big breakthroughs, game-changers or innovations for the business during its long history?
While our shoemaking continues to favour the traditional Goodyear welted construction and manufacturing techniques, advances in technology have enabled us to develop other areas of our business. We were the first of the traditional Northamptonshire shoemakers to launch a retail website and operate a comprehensive in-stock service that can despatch within 24 hours. Perhaps one of the most significant changes is opening our own retail shops. We have been shoemakers for over 130 years, but now we have a means of demonstrating our craft more directly to our customers.
How does a British shoemaker stay ahead of its rivals in such a competitive market and product area?
Simply by making the very best shoes that we can. Really high quality and value-for-money are not mutually exclusive concepts – it’s possible to provide both. It’s important to communicate with those who understand the importance of good footwear, listen to what they want and make it available to them. I suppose the single biggest factor in facilitating this has been the advent of the internet and the opportunity to engage with a community of like-minded enthusiasts.
What is the appeal for you of doing something at London Fashion Week? Is this something you have done before? Have you ever worked with a designer fashion house in a collaboration before?
Loake has worked previously with Tim Soar at LFW and Kent & Curwen at London Collections Men, and some time ago worked on a limited edition style with Puma. Each time it was by request. We’re not natural self-promoters and we prefer to concentrate on what we do best – making shoes. That said, we appreciate the importance of LFW to both the domestic and the international stage, so to be able to participate alongside another brand with shared values is an exciting and welcome opportunity.
What’s next for the company?
We are a craft-based industry and shoemaking skills have to be learnt and honed over many years. One of the most important challenges for us is to pass these skills on to the next generation. In terms of product, we will continue to combine traditional manufacturing techniques with our own interpretation of fashion trends in order to offer contemporary classic footwear that appeals to a diverse range of customers, from loyal Loake fans to younger wearers who are just discovering the pleasure and benefits of well made, handcrafted men’s footwear.
When people think of Loake they think of …
I’d like to think we demonstrate that there’s definitely a place for enduring style and timeless elegance in a modern, transient world.
In the beginning
We know that prehistoric men used animal skins to keep themselves warm and this is the beginning of mankind’s love affair with leather. Like every other species, humans had to forage and hunt for food. Fruit, berries and vegetables were relatively easy to source in the wild, but we also needed protein – and that usually came in animal form – so early man needed to hunt. The animals that he caught would provide meat, and the skins and fur could be used for rudimentary clothing. As livestock breeding became more prevalent, skins were in greater supply and could also be used for making tents.
In future generations, life became more sophisticated and we would learn how to cook our food and also how to process our leather. Unprocessed leather becomes stiff when it gets cold and it rots when it gets warm, so the various things that were done to improve these properties eventually became the basis of the tanning industry. To begin with, animal fats would be rubbed into the leather to make it more supple and durable, but an alternative method was to smoke it over burning leaves and branches. In time, the processes were gradually refined and developed and one of the world’s oldest industries was born.
The next stages
Still in ancient times, it was discovered that the tannin contained in the bark of some trees, notably oak, had a positive effect, as did the use of alum, a mineral which was widely available, particularly in volcanic areas. As the properties of leather became more controllable and its appearance was improved, it became more widely used for footwear, shields and harnesses, furniture, water containers and even as a covering for rafts.
Possibly the biggest changes in the last 100 years or so were the discovery of the tanning power of chrome salts and the replacement of tanning pits with the rotating drums that can be seen in most modern tanneries. These two revolutionary changes shortened the tanning period from months to a few days and led to the growth of a much more productive and efficient industry.
The modern process
The main stages in the modern process are:
a) Curing with salt. To stop putrefaction and infection and remove excess water from the skins.
b) Soaking. In water to remove the salt and bring the moisture content back to a desirable level so that the hide or skin can be treated with aqueous chemicals.
c) Liming. To remove the hair and get the skin into the right condition for satisfactory tannage. The remaining hair is removed by a dull knife or machine (Scudding).
d) Pickling. The skins are treated with a mixture of salt and acid to bring down the pH to a very low level so as to facilitate the penetration of mineral tanning agent into the substance.
e) Tanning. This can be either vegetable or mineral. Vegetable tanning uses tannin, which occurs naturally in bark. Vegetable tanned leather is flexible and is used for luggage and furniture and the soles of shoes. Mineral tanning usually uses a chromium salt. In the raw state chrome tanned skins are blue and therefore referred to as ‘wet blue’. Chrome tanning is faster than vegetable tanning and produces a stretchable leather which is excellent for use in handbags and garments.
f) Finishing. Depending on the finish desired, the hide may be waxed, rolled, lubricated, injected with oil, split, shaved and, of course, dyed. Materials such as suedes and nubuck are finished by raising the nap of the leather by rolling with a rough surface.
So, why leather?
So, now we come back to the original question: Why do we use leather? Or, more appropriately, in an age of modern synthetic materials, why do we still use leather? The short answer to that is simply because, as a material, leather is absolutely brilliant! But the longer answer is a strange one – because it’s born out of compromise. If we think of all the properties that we want our shoes to have, leather isn’t really the best answer for any single one of them.
Fine leather Loake Goodyear Welted shoes
But, if you want a material that is reasonably water-resistant, breathes, is flexible and yet durable, there is simply nothing like leather (particularly a full-grain calf leather). After thousands of years, and in an age when scientists are constantly exploring and discovering new materials, leather, along with other natural materials like wool, linen and cotton, continues to provide an absolutely unparalleled balance of all these features. And, when made into fine, handmade shoes, it can look just great!
Leather ages with dignity and, over time, can take on a lovely patina and character. At Loake we would even go as far as to say that it can, especially when in the form of fine handmade shoes, take on a little of the personality of its wearer.
What should the well-shod gentleman be wearing when the temperature heats up? Despite the seasonal invasion of a plethora of unflattering, open toe styles, you’ll be pleased to know that you don’t have to ditch your ‘proper’ shoes just because it’s summer.
While leather is definitely still appropriate for more dressy occasions and the office, opt instead for suede styles that work better with your summer wardrobe. Suede is a lighter weight option and a good substitute for bridging the gap between formal and casual wear.
We have many suede styles in our collection, but here are five of our favourites that cater for most looks and occasions. We’ll leave the thorny ‘socks or no socks’ decision to you.
This classic Oxford full brogue is available in our premium 1880 collection. The addition of a suede option in mid Brown for Spring/Summer 17 should prove popular for this tried and tested style, adding versatility for both formal and informal wear. Buckingham uses our Capital last shape for a slight chisel toe and is available in standard/medium F width. Made in England.
A long-standing and perennially popular style, our Eton penny loafer has become one of our most iconic suede designs. Now available in four new suede colours in addition to the traditional Brown – including the Plum suede pictured, Eton uses our 019 last for a relatively short toe with a rounded point. Eton is from the Loake Shoemakers range and is made in England.
Part of our Design Loake range, our contemporary Foley Derby semi-brogue is now available in a Brown suede as well as Black and Tan calf leather. It features a striking contrast blue welt and a natural edged Goodyear Welted sole. The Ridge last used gives this style a longer, squared-off toe and is also a little more generous than some of our F fitting designs. Made in India.
Now an established favourite in our Loake 1880 range, this elegant and distinctive double buckle Monk shoe comes in two suede colour options – mid Brown and Navy. As with Buckingham, Cannon is made on the Capital last and has a slight chisel toe. Available in standard/medium F width. Made in England.
Although essentially a traditional tassel loafer design, here Lincoln is given something of a twist in Navy suede with a contrasting, natural edged sole for a more relaxed look. Part of our mainline Loake Shoemakers range, Lincoln – like Eton – is also quite short in the toe, with a rounded point. Made in England.
When it comes to wedding day attire, grooms have stepped up the style stakes in recent years. A pair of fine standout shoes are now the finishing touch to the groom’s outfit, rather than an afterthought. At the same time, the dress rules have relaxed considerably since the morning suit was de rigour and the groom’s wardrobe choices range from conventional to casual or even unorthodox.
When it comes to footwear, the key considerations should be which style will work best with the chosen outfit and making sure the shoes are properly fitted so they remain comfortable all day. For the latter we recommend visiting one of our Loake shops where our knowledgeable staff will be happy to advise.
While a Black leather lace-up is still the popular choice for traditional dress, for navy suits or a more relaxed look, mid to dark Brown shoes are recommended. But of course there are many other styles and colours available, and there’s nothing to stop you working the casual look with more adventurous colours, or switching the traditional Oxford for a Monk shoe or Brogue style. Just don’t forget to spruce up your shoes with a good brush or polish before the big day!
The following list is by no means exhaustive, but here we present five of our favourite styles for impending newlywed Loake wearers. They cover both traditional and less conventional styles, including an option for wider feet. If you are getting married this year, we hope to welcome you to have some shoes expertly fitted in one of our shops soon.
This classically styled, premium toe-cap Oxford shoe is suitable for all formal occasions. Aldwych is made using our Capital last shape, which gives these shoes a slight chisel toe whilst maintaining a timeless look. Aldwych is a medium F width shoe, and should fit true to size.
Using the Swing last shape gives this shoe a G fitting, which is a suitable choice for those with wider feet. Churchill has a longer toe shape than our Capital last shoes, with a rounded point. Customers who normally wear our F fitting shoes would be advised to try this model a half size smaller.
Using a polished leather for a high shine finish, Smith is a contemporary styled toe-cap Oxford shoe. The Matrix last shape gives this shoe a longer toe with a rounded point not dissimilar to Churchill on the Swing last, yet in a standard F fitting.
Since its introduction, Cannon has become an extremely popular alternative style choice. This double buckle Monk shoe is made in Black and Dark Brown burnished calf leathers, as well as two suede versions. Cannon also uses the Capital last and this Dark Brown variant would complement a navy or grey suit.
This distinctive two- tone brogue is available in three different colour combinations, including this Tan calf and Navy suede option. Tarantula has a natural edged sole and is made using our Claridge last, giving it an elongated, rounded toe. An F fitting, this last shape is slightly more generous than other F fitting styles.
We consider ourselves privileged to have so many loyal fans and to be able to share their experiences with other members of our extended Loake ‘family’. When longstanding Loake wearer Adam Ficek contacted us about repairing his beloved Chester brogues, we asked if we could tell his Loake ‘story’. Happily, he agreed.
Once best known as the drummer in notorious British Rock act Babyshambles, Adam is now an established artist in his own right. Roses Kings Castles was the early moniker he used as a solo artist, initially ‘as an outlet when Babyshambles were on holiday’ and then when he left the band and was writing and recording his own unique catalogue of acoustic pop songs.
“I continually write, whether it’s big band arrangements, electro riffs or folk-pop songs. I just needed an avenue to walk down,” he told us. Since Roses Kings Castles, Adam has been ‘busy recording and writing for other acts, DJ-ing internationally and playing a continuous stream of small intimate acoustic gigs’. He is currently finalising the release schedule for his first solo EP Adam Ficek EP 1, set for release in February 2017.
Adam’s relationship with Loake began over ten years ago. “Loake were always one of the brands I aspired to, but being a jobless musician meant I couldn’t afford them,” he explains. “Then when I joined Babyshambles, I was finally able to buy my first pair of Loake tassel loafers. I was one of the first on the indie music scene to adopt such classic footwear, and I used to get slightly odd looks. But I have always been drawn to things that are traditionally made and have a sense of sincerity about them.”
Adam’s love for our Brighton loafer has not changed, but he has also developed a taste for our Chester brogue, which he can be seen wearing in the pictures he has shared with us here. When he called saying his brogues were on their last legs, we put them in for repair. You can see their journey back to life in the pictures below.
Needless to say, Adam is very pleased to have his old friends back. For more information on our repair and refurbishment service, click here.